Laminate flooring is built for today’s active lifestyle. The HDF laminate core is both water resistant and dimensionally stable and the laminated surface is treated with Aluminum Oxide, adding strength and a high degree of scratch resistance. Laminate warranties cover fading, denting, staining and manufacturers defects; they do not however cover normal day to day wear and tear or incorrect installation. Note that most laminate floor issues do arise from incorrect installation or incorrect or inadequate care and maintenance, including incorrect cleaning methods.
For more serious damage, it might be necessary to replace the damaged boards. The introduction of glueless laminate flooring has resulted in a floor that is both easy to install and repair. For this you will need additional laminate flooring. See below for instructions on replacing laminate floor boards.
Another reason for peaking could be due to the fact that the moldings in the doorways or around the perimeter of the room have been fixed to the floor, thus preventing the floor from expanding. Remember that a laminate floor is a floating floor and must not be fixed to the sub floor or moldings at any point as this will not allow the floor to expand and contract, as these floors naturally do.
Peaking can also arise due to the fact that a continuous area of flooring is
too long in one direction without an expansion joint to relieve the pressure.
This will generally happen in areas where the floor runs for over 40 foot – this
number differs per manufacturer. Check the manufacturers recommendations
if you feel that your area is very large in one direction.
Buckling or warping can also be as a result of an inferior product construction. Laminate floor surfaces are laminated under extremely high pressure. For this reason, it is necceasry to have a pressure balancing layer on the bottom of the boards. This layer is made up of a rigid material and equalzes the pressure that is exerted form above.
Prior to removing an existing flooring or installing a new floor or repairing an existing laminate floor, if there are visible indications of mold or mildew or the presence of a strong musty odor in the area where flooring is to be removed or installed, the source of the problem should be identified and corrected.
To deal with mold and mildew issues, you should refer to the U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) guidelines that address mold and mildew. Depending
on the mold and mildew condition present, those remediation options range
from clean-up measures using gloves and biocide to hiring a professional
mold and mildew remediation contractor to address the condition. Laminate
flooring, because it is relatively non-porous, allow any mold and mildew
on the flooring surface to be easily cleaned. Remediation measures may require
structural repairs such as replacing underlayment and/or subfloor contaminated
with mold or mildew as a result of prolonged exposure to moisture.
The EPA mold guidelines are contained in two publications “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home” (EPA 402-K-02-003) and “Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings ”(EPA 402-K-01-001). Appendix B of the “Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings” publication describes potential health effects form exposure to mold, such as allergic and asthma reactions and irritation to eyes, skin, nose and throat. These publications can be located on EPA’s website at www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/
1. Start by removing the baseboard or molding. Be sure to do this carefully
as not to damage the molding, as it is replaced in the final step.
2. Remove the boards starting from the molding until the damaged board is accessible.
3. Replace the damaged board and then the rest of the boards you removed, by clicking them back in place.
4. Replace the molding.
The process of repairing a laminate floor board that is closer to the center of the room is more detailed and time consuming. The process involves removing the damaged board utilizing a saw or router, then replacing the board utilizing a sufficient water resistant adhesive. Follow these steps.
1) Mark the damaged board 1-1/2” from ends and side. Drill 3/16” holes
at corners of marked area.
2) Cut along lines between the drilled holes and remove the center section. Then cut remaining piece in the center on both sides and remove.
3) Prepare a replacement board by cutting and removing the factory tongue along the long and short end of the board. The figure below represents the two types of locking systems available.
4) Apply adhesive to the cut edges and replace the board by aligning the groove on the replacement board with the tongue of the abutting board, and snap back into place.
5) Make sure all edges are even on either side of the joints. Utilize a heavy object to apply pressure for at least 24 hours. Make sure the weight is evenly distributed across the new piece.
Prevention is better than cure. Place floor mats at door entrances inorder to reduce the amount of sand tracked into the house. It is a good idea to place felt pads under furniture legs as this wil lprevent scratching caused by dragging the furniture across the floor. Also keep large pets' nails groomed.